Priming Oil System

My Xk140 has been out of service for about 10 months (non-mechanical
repairs) and this is to report the time oriented failures. Even with
removing all fuel from carbs, lines, pump before stoppage- floats stuck to
bottom of carbs (brass, steel, pot metal - oh my) needles functional.
Auxillary carb - non functional- solenoid stuck. All fuses required
cleaning to have services. Water Temperature gauge - dead, break not found.
No problem with fuel pump. ( I have stopped having problems with the pump
ever since I put a decent fuel filter/water seperator tankside of the
pump). Clutch was stuck - (rust on presure plate I assume) - required a
little driving with the petals down to dis-engage. Transmission required
top up. Have a noisy intake tappet - tolerable but not right, the last time
I did the valve adjustments, I had a couple of "problems", and put
everything "right" by the book - specs and all. And how fast would the
adjusting pad wear if I accidentally detempered it? Valve seat receding
into the head? I don't remember it being this loud. Brakes are dragging a
little -- solution not addressed yet, hopefully just minor surface rust,
will clear with a little usage, otherwise.... Most of this is due to a wet
year - high humidity. Lucas faired unusually well this time. Oil pressure
is 20+ when cranking, wish I had an easy way to prime the system after
sitting for so long. Horns sound sick.. And lastly - another xk sees the
highway - Yours, John E. Currey

Hi John E, Curry & all -- FIRST, I asume you have the correct factory
manuals for the XK140 (XK120/Mk VII Service Manual, factory shop manual;
Supplement to this for XK140; Spare Parts Catalogue for XK140; Owner's
Manual for XK140). Priming the engine after an oil change is simple, but
requires a little time:  (Ignition OFF) (1) drain engine and oil filter
thoroughly, preferably with engine warm, and replace engine plug after
checking gasket correctly so no later leaks; (2) replace filter with new
element and screw down correctly after cleaning all parts with petrol or
engine degreaser and letting dry throrougly; (3) refill sump with correct
oil (I use Castrol 20/50 GTX here in Northern California), 10 quarts; (4)
disconnect ignition coil for safety; (5) remove all 6 sparking plugs from
head (to reduce pressure for next step); (6) with a friend to watch gauge
in the cockpit, crank engine with pushbutton on solenoid starter switch,
under-bonnet (right side) -- do 20 seconds, wait 20 seconds, until friend
says oil pressure needle has moved. If needle does NOT move, you may have
an oil pressure problem; go to (9). (7) Once needle has moved (indicating
oil pressure in galleries), refit sparking plugs and reconnect, reconnect
ignition coil, start engine from driver's seat, watching oil pressure gauge
-- if nothing after 15 seconds, switch off -- you have a possible oil
pressure problem. (8) Needle should go to 40 PSI or more (cold engine)
within 2-3 seconds.  If it does, warm engine to 70 degrees c on temp.
gauge, check pressure -- should read 40 PSI at 2,000 RPM.  If not, you have
a possible oil pressure problem. (9) Shut off, remove relief valve at top
front of oil filter assembly, disassemble, check for debris inside, clean;
try again for 40 PSI at 70 c; if still low, you may have main/connecting
rod/cam bearing wear. If so, come back -- we can help! - Larry Martz

If you have any questions or comments send e-mail to: ted@jag-lovers.org
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